BP Oil Spill Suggestions Continue to Arrive
We’ve had several more suggestions to fix the oil leak or limit the damage from the BP oil spill. If you want to join in the conversation, the quickest way is to post a comment. You may also send your suggestion to us using the Contact Form on this page.
Laura writes:
Hi – I had a thought while doing the dishes… I had an oil mass in the water of my sink and added the dish soap. Immediatly after, the oil moved away from the soap. I know they are using the boui system to keep the oil from getting to the coastline…. would it be possible to add soap to that containment barrier and it would then deter it from coming in?
Additionally, if there was a way to do this, maybe the boui and soap could be dragged around oil spill area(s) to get the oil more contained and use a water suction process to get the oil up? I’m sure there are alot of ideas coming in… maybe this could work?
Pietro writes:
May I suggest you a possible solution to stop the oil spill as an alternative to the useless method of sucking the oil plume, my suggestion is: to inject inside the broken pipe, by mean of a proper umbilical pipe leaded by the ROV (Remote Operating Vehicle) a special mix of expansive hygroscopic resins, chemically compatible either with sea water and oil, with very short hardening time, such to create a plug sufficient to resist to the pressure (oil/gas) in a manner to interrupt the flow. I’ve much more details to provide you and then, if you are interested to this method, pls contact me…
Anyway, crossing fingers, I wish you all the best to succed to find out a prompt solution.
With my best regards, Pietro Lodovigi
Michael writes:
I have an idea for fixing leak in the gulf. Have a molded rubber funnel with ribbed inside, to fit around the outside of pipe.
If the rubber piece can be pushed on pipe maybe two to three feet,with the ribs well over the break, with the pressure from the sea, I think it would work. The rubber would need to be pretty thick to prevent it from colapsing. The other end would be clamped to pipe going to the surface.
Would like to hear back if this has been thought of.
Worked in a refinery in Texas for many years .
Gary writes:
I see you inserted a pipe into the leaking oil pipe. Why don’t you fix a ring on the suction pipe attached to a Kevlar bladder that the suction pipe runs through? The other end of the bladder is fixed to a sliding ring on the pipe. Against this bladder is a compressed spring, over the suction pipe, held in place with a pin that can be pulled from the inside. A cable runs down the inside of the pipe to the pin out a valve that the robot submersible could pull. When the pin is pulled the spring pushed the bladder swelling it like a donut to seal off the leaking oil pipe. I have sent ideas using this principle to seal off the whole pipe.
Bill writes:
Just just thought it would repeat my thoughts on this page about the oil spill.
Treat it in a similar way as an oil blowout on land:
First lower the large cylinder called a “top hat “without the top on it.
Then lower the top part that has a pipe and valve attached to it to cover the open “top hat” the oil flow with its velocity and temperature should stop the “ice” from forming. Then close the valve fully or partially enough to attach additional pipe segments to the surface.
Some added ideas are to incorporate in inverted U space in the first piece lowered that should be directed over the existing healthy pipe part on the ocean floor so as not to crush it.
Also the top piece could have a side lip to it to make it easier to put on the bottom unit.
The top piece could/should be bolted down using pre-drilled holes, and metal threaded inserts if this unit is made out of concrete. Additionally the bottom piece(our large circular “top hat “as is well known by now) could have flanges on the bottom so it could be additionally secured to the ocean floor by large metal stakes with course threads such as used in home flooring nails.
BILL G GLICKMAN
glickzev@aol.com
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Load the pipeline that feeds the well with enouth explosives to collapse the pipline and surrounding sand in on itself and seal itself off.
Use a snug cyindrical rubber plug (lenth to be determine) with a heavy core such as lead to counter the pressure from the oil well. The rubber plug should have at least three inflatable bands or a inflatable tube at the bottom or both. Attach a cable to the top of the cyindrical rubber plug, secure the other end by using a crossbar or some other mean. Lower the plug to desired deth, inflate bands, inflatable tube or both to seal well.
Use a snug cylindrical rubber plug (lenth to be determine) with a heavy core such as lead to counter the pressure from the oil well. The rubber plug should have at least three inflatable bands or a inflatable tube at the bottom or both. Attach a cable to the top of the cylindrical rubber plug, secure the other end by using a crossbar or some other mean. Lower the plug to desired deth, inflate bands, inflatable tube or both to seal well.
try a T-shaped open tube assembly with shut off valves. cinch down to bpo and activate.
similar to this:
http://tinypic.com/r/29nxftv/6
Please review the proposal by Bronze Bush, LLC. It has been five weeks since initial disclosure and three weeks since disclosure to the new suggestion format. There has not been any response.
Best Regards,
Patrick Bush
To be honest, I don’t know anything about oil drilling in the ocean floor or land for that matter, but I’m assuming wells need to be pressurized to force oil out to the surface.
is it possible to find bleeding points atop of the well to lower the pressure of the outflow ? I imagine there’s a lot more involved.
is it possible to clog a well under pressure ? are there chemicals available that react to oil, as far as causing oil to gel up or become thicker to potentially clog escape routes, like you see in foam sprays for sealings cracks ?
My suggestion is to slip a sleeve over the existing pipe with a gate valve attatched to the top. Keep the gate valve in the open position.
Commendations prior to lowering the sleeve is to drill and thread some holes in the sleeve so that the sleeve can be bound to the spewing pipe. Or cut some vertical slice from the sleeve so that a clamp placed around these slits would bind the sleeve to the spewing pipe.
If you get this far, just shut off the gate valve.
There are a lot of very good ideas out there to possibly resolve the oil spill problem from what I have just read. How about a more unorthodox aproach of sinking a U.S. Navy bone yard aircraft carrier right over the top of the leak? Thus creating another artificial reef and plugging the leak forever. I have heard there was a bone yard located somewhere down there in Louisianna.
Good thought. One issue would be controlling the sinking ship to settle just right over the hole.
I think the idea to stop the leak with a cap was bad from the start because of the strong pressure from the release of gas and oil. After cutting off the riser, it will make more sens tome to lower a cone inside the pipe. If you cast a lead cone approximatly 16 feet tall, 4 inches in diameter at the bottom, 25 or 26 inches at the top, it should be not to difficult to instert the small end into the leaking pipe. As you lower the cone, it will sef center with the oil and gas flow. The weight of the cone itself, even under water will prevent to be expeled. Lead casting are simple. Of course this idea will not allow for oil recovery. I have another idea for a system that will allow oil recovery
I have sent this idea with no responce I would think that BP wants to stop the leak and start recovering product. If anyone is interested in the correct cheapest fix this is it. The well is going to need a new casing from well to platform so this is not much more than that. The correct fix is to put a fitting on the bottom of the new casing with a compressable farrow and a one way sprag. The new casing will be a little smaller than old damaged casing. Lower new casing with fitting down old well untill a know good location and just tighten pipe to compress fitting locking sprag and compressing farrow. The well is now safe and ready to deliver product. Win Win.
Dear Sir
Not knowing much about pressure at the depth that the oil leak is at,
I have given it much thought.
Is it possible to take a navy ship out of moth balls, cut a opening in the bottom just large enough for the cap to fit inside, and lower it over the leak. Hatch ways would have to be welded and a spot for a orfice which a hose can be fitted to pump out the oil and keep the pressure inside to a less degree. Ships weigh a lot, but could this be done? I thought the weight of the ship would keep the ship firmly on the bottom to prevent leakage.
Sincerely
Mr. Gerald Edward Williams
Why don’t we lower a large and very heavy bladder-like sand bag over the leaking pipe. Smaller sand bags can be used to raise the elevation of the sea floor and to brace the pipe. If the pipe opening has a jagged edge, re-cut it for a smooth edge. To insure the bladder is heavy enough, mix several tons of lead with the sand. Once the leak is stopped, drill the relief wells to relieve the pressure.
I have three ideas for stopping the flow. Numbers one and two will be a permanent seal using the existing equipment you have on the ocean floor and some special, machine shop made fixtures. The third idea I have will involve an 8″ valve to be utilized upon completion of the assembly. I have a rough drawing of the fixture and valve/door assembly should you decide it would be feasible to use. The cup like fixture has a flange on the face, two hinge pins on one side and hasp receiver on the other side. The center is cut out leaving two 1.5″ wide cross members. A 1″-13 threaded hole will go through the center of the cross members and a four foot long, one inch dia. rod will be threaded
into the hole. The inside of the cup will have a thick flexible sealant material. The I.D. of the cup diameter will be at least 1 1/2″ larger than the pipe diameter to allow an easy alignment. The cup will be pushed onto the pipe and seatd by gripping the 1″ rod. The hole in the center of the cup will minimize the pressure during this operation. To secure the cup to the pipe you will need at least two 1″ diameter X 36″ long diamond tipped drills. Twenty inches behind the face of the cup you will drill through the cup and pipe with the drill sticking out at least four inches on the other side and then release the drill. Two drills 90 degrees apart should do the job to secure the cup.
The door will have an 8″ valve bolted on its face, two hinge sleeves on one side and a clasp on the other side. The sealing side will have a thick flexible sealant material that will contact the cup flange. A steel tab with a hole in it will be welded to the top of the door to be used to hold the door for positioning of the hinges. With the valve open, the door hinge sleeves will be lowered onto the cup hinge pins. The door will then be closed and the clasp secured to the hasp. The valve will then be closed and the leak is stopped.
An expandable Kevlar balloon catheter at least 1000ft down the well pipe, pumped full of sea water with sausage sections of balloons every 10ft with the sea water pumped into the bottom far end section first and filling up to the top, the fabric and the seawater will form a plug somewhere along the 10ooft length. This is similar to balloon angioplasty done inside the human body. The devise can be put through the oil pipe with a 2 inch center fiberglass pole similar to a pole vault. Sea water can be pumped through the pores center of the fiberglass pole and passed into each chamber bubble upward.
Construct or cast a funnel with an opening on the top. Make sure the funnel or bell shape is wide enough to cover whatever is down there and heavy enough to sink well below the sea floor ( several tons).
This will force the oil to come out on the top through a pipeline that is connected to it and this will make the flow totally controllable as well as make the microsurgery BP tries to perform unnecessary.
Casting, if done right, can be completed fairly quickly and this contraption could be in place very quickly.
I agree use a funnel type apparatus with the casing attached drop it over the well head and be ready to catch the oil that should be driven to the surface by its own pressue and suction from above if needed.
I have suggested that BP cover the hole in the pipe with tons of boulders that could be sent below the ocean site with a steel net that could be lifted off after the new drill line was completed.
I am a dredge operator and was thinking that we could use a few of the hopper dredges like the ones that were used to build the islands in Dubiai to build artifical barriers a mile or so off of the beaches to contain the slick from hitting the main beaches.
We can laser guide a bomb right into the air shaft of a Iraqi bunker, or an Afgani cave. Why can’t we guide a super high explosive imploding device into the drilling hole via laser, sonar, or radio waves from a submarine or aircraft, and seal up the oil flow with rock underground rubble, and substrata?
There are devices that can lift concrete slabs off people by blowing them up with air/pressure. Attach one of these devices, or simply have a robot hold it in place, while it blows up. Once there is enough pressure in the device, it should hold itself there. Just don’t put too much pressure.
Cross cut of the pipe has being done. Now, is it possible to do a welding on the pipe below leak? If so, just weld 12 threaded studs 2 inch diameter ten feet long. Make round iron plate 10 inches thick 1000 mm diameter with 12 holes, put it trough threaded studs, put nuts on studs. Plate shell made with cone bronze attached to it below to make soft seal. Above plate you may attach suction pipe to the sea level, or just nothing on top- just dead plate- plug.
Tighten nuts from 7 feet distance from pipe end (Is 3 feet enough to strong weld?) until you approach the end.
I think that you could have one of the worlds larger polybutylene pipe manufacturers , design a thick wall PB pipe 3 miles long with the proper diameter & thickness.Maybe even a type of ABS its a petrol based. It wouldn’t have to be that long, just long enough to work with. The connection would be the largest challenge, but if you could gradually increase the diameter of the pipe as you rise to the surface it should reduce the pressure enough to make the tie-in to the tap, once that is ran the rest is simple, barge+crane+lots of tankers. Keep it going don’t restrict the flow & there you go. I f you need I could draw it up & spec it out for you.
Similar to a heart stent, with a valve and connected to piping
Insert into the open pipe with the valve closed. Pump water to expand the stent to the sides of the pipe. Once it pushes up against the sides of the pipe, it will stop the flow.
Opening the valve, will allow oil to be removed, or to control the pressure
Why not just take an oak log within a half inch diameter of the pipe, and drive it in to stop the oil leak. The oil will cause the wood to expand and seal it up. If the stump begins to break seal. Take one of the robots that are already on site and drive stump back in place.
Thank You,
Terry Ralph
Owensboro Ky
I believe you should saw the studs holding the riser flange to the blowout
preventer & replace riser with a Halliburton Frac valve with the same bolt pattern. You could then shut the flow off until you could hook up a
new riser to a tanker.
THANKS
Subject: Solutions for stopping the oil spill
Gentlemen,
There have been numerous suggestions to stopping the runaway oil in the gulf. However, my solution is very simple in explanation, but complex in execution. It’s not only intended to stop the flow of oil but also allows for reactivation and returning the well to full production.
In simple terms, it is a large pipe with a hinged clam shell on one end which wraps around the oil well head flange and while allowing the oil to continue to escape up through the center of the pipe. Once locked in place an electronically activated gate valve shuts off the flow of oil, and once the oil flow stop, on the top of the device, oil production piping can be attached allowing the well to be turned into full production.
My idea is simple, but considering extreme temperatures and pressure, building and designing a clam shell device that can attach itself to the well head is extremely complex.
I suggest that this idea be turned over to your engineering department and a see if such a device is possible to build.
Good luck in stopping the flow of oil!
Sincerely,
Carter Cafritz
DROP TWO 3″ LINES DOWN THE 22″ PIPE ,THE FIRST LINE WILL STOP 100′ FROM OIL WELLS CORE, THIS WILL DISCHARGE LIQUID NITROGEN, THE 2ND LINE WILL BE 200′ ABOVE THE 1ST. THIS LINE WILL PUMP A HIGH PRESSURE QUICK DRYING CEMENT.AS THE LIQUID NITROGEN IS RELEASED INSTANT FREEZING WILL OCCUR,THE SECOND LINE WILL DISCHARGE IT’S QUICK DRYING CEMENT,THEREFORE FORMING A GLORIFIED PLUG ,WITH THE WEIGHT HOLDING IT DOWN AGAINST THE P.S.I. OF THE OIL.
Design a type of catch funnel that would bolt on to the well head casing (will have to be designed by those who have a better idea of what the situation actually looks like). Once catch funnel is bolted on and ready, lower a heavy wall string of piping (with the same outside diameter as the well heads’ inside diameter) one section at a time by hoisting rig, connections to be either casing threaded or welded ie. socket or butt welded. Due to angle at the well head there would have to be calculations made to determine the surface distance from well head to hoisting rig to at least try and have a chance at a proper alignment. Once at required depth drift piping over well head and stab the heavy wall piping into the catch funnel.
At the other end of the pipe, (at surface) a double block and bleed system or a wellhead will be set up, in the open position ( like a stabbing valve on the drilling rigs ) so that when the heavy wall piping is inserted inside the well head the oil still has a place to relieve it’s pressure. As the oil comes to surface there will be numerous tankers available ready to take on oil.
At this time there will be a crew waiting to install a specially sized pre-made pressurized casket to slide over the connection at the well head. Once crew has casket installed and they are as certain as they can be that a seal has been made, communticate to surface crew to begin to choke back on valves at surface until isolation is achieved.
There is some obvious detailed planning that would have to take place prior to excecution but please if there any questions please do not hesitate to contact me anytime. andian24@hotmail.com
hi this is dad;yes i truly think it,s gonna work
Wouldn’t it be possible to take a mothballed ship, like a single hulled oil tanker that’s not used anymore, cut out a large section of the bottom and sink this over the entire site? If it is allowed to fill with water as it sinks, the pressure should not crush it. Oil and gas would displace the water and could then be pumped to the surface.
SINCE THEY HAVE ROBOTS THAT CAN WORK DOWN THAT DEEP HOW ABOUT INSTALLING A PIPE WITH A BLADDER ON THE END THAT CAN BE INFLATED WITH CONCRETE OR SOME OTHER SOLUTION THAT WILL SET UP AFTER THE BLADDER IS INSERTED INTO THE PIPE AND INFLATED?MAKES SENSE TO ME AND PLEASE DO IT BEFORE THAT MESS GETS TO TAMPA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
simple is the way; use the funnel (upside down ) idea just as you would if you were drilling only now you are putting a “funnel” over the existing well , with the tech you have for a sealeant to use around the well head apply suction to the top of the well casing ram the the funnel down over the the well head at the same time apply negative pressure (suction) to the top and be ready to handle the flow of oil that will follow . this should work while you drill the relief well . .
Hope this inspires some ideas
George Gee
N.S Canada
rezoom top kill.tap in bop a section with second pump.if pressure can be redust . pump mercury slug twice wetght of last known mud wetght or 50 barrows with second pump in a section. chase with drill mud.water tempature at 1000ft sablize mercury
I have to use an example of what happened to me when I had a Lower GI series of test done. I know, I know. what the hell does an oil leak have to do with this subject. I will ellaborate.
During the procedure a tube/tip is inserted into the rectum (hence oil leak hole) inside of this tube there is a balloon which is fill with compressed air. This balloon allows the technician to administer barium into the colon/lower intestine . The balloon holds everything in place and prevents major leakage.
In the case of this oil leak, could it be possible to apply this same principal. After the balloon is inserted into the oil leak hole…then what ever measures that need to be taken could be put in place. Maybe even inserting a device to collect oil again with out the disaster continuning. I know I am most likely not the first to suggest…but it just struck my mind so I thought I would add my input…hope this problem is resolved very soon.
Drill a second well next to broken pipe to relieve pressure. Then seal the broken pipe.
37 years as a plumber we use these all the time for testing lines, in plumbers slang they are called “Test Weenies” picture an inflatable hot dog that come in various sizes to fit the pipe size you have, you can use an inert anhydrous gas to prevent freezing and Im sure the manufacturer can make anything to your specifications to ease insertion with the pressures you are dealing with, They make these with metal “Grip” teeth to hold higher pressure applications, not knowing all of the criteria I would like to think this would stop or at least slow the oil to plug it with a proven method.
DRILL A SMALL HOLE 20 TO 30 FEET FROM THE ORIGINAL LEAKING WELL. DRILL THIS HOLE DEEP ENOUGH TO GET INTO SOLID SOIL OR ROCK, DEPENDING ON THE COMPOSITON OF THE DRILLED SOIL. (5000′ OR MORE). SET AN EXPLOSIVE CHARGE OFF AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DRILLED HOLE, THE EXPLOSION WILL CRUSH THE LEAKING WELL AND PLUG IT OFF WITH THE FRACTURED ROCK . WITH THE OIL STOPPED BOTH HOLES SHOULD BE PLUGGED WITH CONCRETE.
PLEASE HAVE YOUR ENGINEERING DEPT CONSIDER THIS OPTION.
THANK YOU/GOOD LUCK
Is is possible to crimp the pipe closed by using some type of a hydraulically designed, high pressure press type of vice around the pipe and press it flat at intervals? May need to put another pipe over the existing pipe to get some strengthening.
I really want technical information. What pressures are we dealing with (gauge pressure inside the pipe)? What velocities are we dealing with? Is the pipe on the well head (that has been cut off) round or partially deformed? Is the pipe mild steel or high carbon steel. Does it machine well and can it be cut or grasped with a cleat? What is the internal diameter of the pipe at the discharge head. If you stick somthing down the discharge hole, how far can you go before you hit an obstruction? What is the diamter of the flange on the discharge head? If the well were cut off, what static pressure can be expected inside of the pipe? I have more questions but opinions are not much good unless I have more to work with. Can someone help?
Why not construct a thin lead and steel tube coated with teflon and containing 100 slots. Fill each of those with expander foam and a small explosive charge fitted with a timing device. Push off the riser and drop the tube down the hole. When the thing has dropped about 1500 feet blow it then pump concrete in. This may take a couple of weeks to set up but it’s worth a try. Good luck.
How stupid can everyone be–basic physics 101. What happens when you bend a straw over? Now bend it over and crush it to the ground with a hundred pounds on top of it–nothing will come out of it and you can’t blow anything out of it. Done deal. You pour a cement block the size of a huge house and surround it with steel and put a hook on top of it. You lower a hundred ton block on top of the silly pipe that is leaking with the barges out there and the leak is crushed and kinked and stopped. If that doesn’t kink the pipe, you lower another block on top of the block.
Oh, but you all don’t think we all know you are trying to save the oil and re use it. Dumb asses full of monkey business are you all.
Even in my own house i can shut off the gas, electric and water if there is a problem. Why didn’t you have valves at the bottom of the ocean? It cost too much right? Now how much is going to cost guys?
I have an idea for stopping the oil leak. but I need more information which I haven’t been able to find. Please help if you can.
Questions:
1 what is the I.D. of the pipe?
2 Is the I.D. of the pipe the same from the top of the BOP to the bottom
of the well?
3 Is the pipe straight from top to bottom?
4 What is at the bottom of the pipe? Is there a screen or debris filter of
some sort?
5 Does the pipe end in a cavern filled with oil? If so how far from the
bottom does the pipe end?
With the answers to these questions I may have a solution. Please respond
Thank you
Louis Deis
If they thought dumping golf balls, bailing wire and gum wrappers into the well would work, maybe they ought to try something that would stick to the inside of the pipe. Perhaps some very strong magnets. They would stick to the inside of the pipe and to each other. When enough are in place to slow the flow adequately, cement could be poured on top and the well sealed. Alternatively, strong electromagnets could be put around the outside of the pipe, and then pieces of iron could be dumped inside. When the iron plugs the well, cement could be poured on top.
A chute needs to be attached to the pipe just above the ports where the oil is escaping (the pressure should be much less there then right at the source). This tube should be made of very tough material similar to the garbage shoots that are suspended from hi-rise buildings which are used to drop waste materials down to dumpsters many stories bellow.
This tube should funel the oil into one large basin enclosed by the boui containment barrier. If the spill cannot be stopped until the relief wells are drilled then we should at lest try to contain the plumes and spill radius to one confined area where tankers can pump the oil out. One mile of tubing and a few miles of containment beats the canvassing the coast and inlets. What are your thoughts on this?
Four or more submarines (North ,South, East, West) with mega nose cone tubes aimed at plume with mutliple channels to capture the bursting oil and channel it in many many directions.
Retrofit your largest suction footer with enough pipes to handle 100,000 barrels per day without freezing up. Connect each pipe to a separate pump and storage container. Remove all Debris and sink suction footer over well and just maintain a constant vacume to remove oil and keep footer in place.
These are all excellent ideas that everyone has posted. The main thing is the pipe has to be stopped temporarily or permanently as soon as possible. They can always go in later once they have a better idea to fix it. If the latest plan doesn’t work with the sheers and placing a cap over it, I have three suggetsions. First one is to make a new clean cut and make cone shape plug that is approximately 4′ long and place it inside the pipe so that it is wedged in there. There will be oil that leaks out from the plug and the pipe so they can use a radiator hose idea with bands/clamps on each side. Second idea is similar to the first, still make a clean cut on the pipe. Get another pipe the same diameter with a vale on the other end and use the radiator hose idea or use a 2′ strip of sheet metal over the two pipes and tightened down with bolts similar to what they use on the exhaust system on your vehicles. Third idea is since they can lower hydrualic sheers to that depth, why can’t they lower a hydraulic press that could crimp the end like a straw. While pressure is still on the pipe, they could weld the end of the pipe.
Pump LN2 into the riser pipe use for the mud it sholud slow down the speed the the oil comes out. It should freeze the oil long enough for cement the hole/
Put a tube over the existing pipe. Weld it on. And close the valve.
Use a hydraulic clamp (depends on metal; use heat) to deform the pipe, so the oil can’t get out.
Imagine that you a funnel which is attached to a long hose. Now if you put than funnel upside down you can clearly see that can be used to capture something in while you have opening in the end. Cap the well with already made structure and capture the oil out the of the water. I know it is quite deep, but today’s technology and the materials we have, it can be done. If we are talking about the water pressure and collapsing the funnel outside in, we can built vertical and horzontal columns with strong materials that will touch one wall to another wall (all four walls) of the funnel (many of them) inside the funnel (before taking into the water). Still the captured oil can be move through the wholes (gaps).
I wish had a way to sketch and post here.
My son Ray, does irrigation work. He has an idea that if you drill a bigger well over the pipe that is broken it will push the smaller pipe through the bigger pipe. Then you can still use the well and fix the problem. Have a gate valve so that if this ever happens again you can just shut it off until it gets fixed. For example if you have a 12′ pipe that is broken drill a 24′ pipe over it. With a gate valve over it so after drilling you can shut it off.
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